So after our time spent at Mid-Ohio Raceway in Lexington, Zac and I drove the hour and a half to Cleveland. We checked into the Hampton Inn Downtown, just a few blocks from the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame, at about 5 o’clock.
Now I’d looked at all the info for the R&RHOF online, and what surprised me the most were the hours operation. 10am-5:30pm. Yes, my friends, a Rock & Roll place closes in time for the Early-Bird Special. Something is just not right. I mean, if it’s going to be authentically Rock & Roll, it should open at about 4pm and close at 4am. You know, drinking hours. Okay, maybe that’s a stretch. I guess on weekends, drinking hours could start at 11am.
So I’d hoped we could check out the HOF that evening, but alas, we’d have to get up at the ungodly hour of 9 in the morning to get there when the place opened at 10 on Sunday.
In the mean time, two boys with time to kill took a stroll in hoppin’ downtown Cleveland, to get some eats and see what’s what. So we head out the door of the hotel on East 9th, make a left and walk towards Euclid Ave. The first thing we notice is how clean Cleveland’s downtown is. Sparklingly so. We comment on this to each other, but then realize the reason for the street’s pristine state.
On this beautiful, cool autumn evening, a Saturday night, at 8 o’clock, there’s nobody else on the street! Of course the place is clean! There’s nobody to make a mess fer’cryin’outloud! I mean, new York may have some of the most disgusting sidewalks in the country, but at least there thousands of people walking on them on any given Saturday night.But, no, not here. In the 6 blocks we walk to the “restaurant row” of the city- East 4th Street, we pass perhaps a dozen people, one of whom was a panhandler. I fund this all a shame, as the downtown area has been revitalized and is obviously on the comeback. Lots of cool architecture, kitchy bars and restaurants. Just a nice city. Hopefully, it’s got more life to it in the summer.
I should mention that yes, as it got later, a crowd did start to form around the entrance to the theater for The House Of Blues, consisting mainly of the 20-something crowd, so there IS hope.
Zac and I walked down East 4th, which is a cute alleyway with lights and cobblestones. Lots of outdoor restaurants (empty on this cool evening) but inside, doing a decent business. Since we’d never actually been in a House of Blues- amazingly there is none in NYC- we went in and scarfed down some authentic corporate Southern-style cuisine. The food was at least as good as that which could be found at, oh, any Hard Rock Cafe.
We braved the crowd (yeah right) back to the hotel and sacked out for the evening. After all, we had to be up early to Rock & Roll!
After a quick buffet breakfast, we made the short walk to the R&R HOF.

We’d gotten our tickets at the hotel, so we stopped to take this photo, which, as it turns out, was the only photo we could take at the R&RHOF, as cameras are strictly forbidden inside. Apparently, taking a photo of oneself in front of Elvis’s purple Lincoln is a financial threat to the integrity of the museum’s collection.
The building itself is a spectacular pyramid, even nicer in person that the pictures suggest. We walked inside the bright airy atrium, and headed downstairs to the coat check and into the museum. We were in the lobby checking out a couple of guitar displays, and one of the docents came over, saying, “I notice you’re checking out that James Burton Telecaster. Isn’t that an amazing instrument?” He went on to talk about the guitar and its owner, the history of it and Burton’s career (lead guitarist for Elvis’s TCB band, played with Ricky Nelson, John Denver, many others, was inducted into HOF by long-time admirer Keith Richards). The docent was really knowledgeable and friendly, and his enthusiasm made me really look forward to going inside and seeing more.
We went in and sat down in the theater that begins the experience. The movie began with a nice homage to R&R’s Blues and Jazz roots, then continued to a quick history in interviews and film clips. About 15 minutes long, it was a good primer to get us in the mindset to tour the place.
The HOF has it all covered. Virtually every aspect of R&R’s history is covered, with just about every influential group you could name given its due. It’s possible Zac and I missed them, but the only groups we felt that were given “short shrift” were Led Zepplin and The Who. That being said, the “tour” begins with a walk through of the earliest history of R&R, proceeding to a large room of Elvis memorabilia, the centerpiece of which is a purple/white ‘75 Lincoln Mark IV, the requisite guitars sheet music, hotel bills, poster and such. From Elvis, we moved on to the 60s room, with an extensive Jimi Hendrix display, then on to a room that was divided by geography- showing the Rock scenes from New York, LA, Seattle. I was impressed with the New York one, of course, as I grew up here, and I was taken back to my teenage and early 20s years prowling the clubs in NYC. Seeing the NY Dolls, The Clash, Talking Heads, Blondie, The Ramones and the whole Punk era come back to life was a trip. There was some great video from what looked like CBGBs, of the Sex Pistols and Patty Smith on stage, and I was compelled to tell the story to Zac of one of the times I’d spent there. The place (CBGBs) was crowded, and I was able to get to the front of the stage as Patty Smith sang (sort of) and read her ranting poetry. What I recall was her armpit hair and the fact that, - well, let me preface this by saying I’d been spit on from stage by Johnny Rotten, hit by tossed sweat from any number of acts, but for the first time ever, I could actually smell the musical act’s body odor onstage. Patty Smith was truly Nasteeee!
Anyway, we walked through the place, coming to a nice large diorama of Beatle artifacts, and the same of The Stones. There was a small electronic section covering radio and Deejays, and it was fun to go back to hear Allison Steele (that voice!) Scott Muni, Dave Herman and Carol Miller on the headphones. Blasts from the past.
On to the other smaller dioramas of stuff from everyone from U2 to ZZ Top. Bowie, Tom Petty, Allman Brothers, Aerosmith, even Madonna. At the very top of the building pyramid was the actual Wall used by Pink Floyd in Concert, along with the giant blow up balloon of Teacher, hanging high above Pink in his motel chair in front of the crappy TV (from the movie of The Wall). Also hanging in space in the pyramid were a bunch of the Trabants from U2’s concerts.
Some more movies that they showed with various poignant moments: Chrissie Hynde talking about drugs and the road, and that so many musicians grow up as outcasts and then when they get successful, young and quickly, they’re thrust out into the world, in unfamiliar places far from home, lots of cash, hangers on and free drugs, and it’s no wonder a lot of them never make it to old age. Another was Pete Townsend opining: “Jimi’s dead, Janice is dead, Kieth, John, all these people are dead. To you they’re all icons, But to me, these people were my fucking friends. I knew them. I played with them. I miss them. It just makes me sad.” Both these statements really humanized the whole Rock Star death syndrome.
All-in-ll, the R&RHOF is a great destination. It’s well done and covers all the bases. From history to memorabilia to technology and the music, I wasn’t disappointed with anything, except the inability to take pictures. I recommend anyone who’ into music to get there.
So Zac and I finished up in, where else? The gift shop, where I spent way too much on crap and t-shirts, but hey, ya gotta have something to remember the trip by even after the credit card bill is paid. From there, we walked back to the hotel, got the car and headed for The Road, for the 8-hour drive back home.